The Corkless Mind

Tag: Chardonnay

Experience The Elgin Valley
The Elgin Valley, synonymous with award-winning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay varietals that sing with cool climate melodic notes. Situated about 70 km’s from Cape Town. It’s incredibly easy to drive by if you’re not a local and just take in the scenic drive en route to another nearby town. In case you’re not familiar with South Africa, the Western Cape is a treasure trove of so many wondrous and beautiful wineries, each region takes on a different and own unique typicity of terroir. This fact excites me and could get me reading and listening about wine in a geographical sense for hours! Don’t get me started 🙂

Why Elgin you ask? For our honeymoon, we ended up touring a few of my favourite regions, such as the Walker Bay, Swartland and Bot River regions. So in reliving the magic, we decided on our first anniversary this year, we would explore another favourite, Elgin. The valley of not just cool climate wines, but the home of Appletiser, apples and, who can’t forget Peregrine!

Peregrine (not pictured here) has grown from a deli/farm stall into a tourist attraction for their fresh produce, freshly baked loaves of bread, wine section and restaurant. Outside a small grassy patch with a little park for the kiddies and pooches to be entertained and refreshed. This is one pitstop you cannot miss. Be sure to stock up on lots of delicious freshly pressed apple juice, sourdough, mosbolletjie bread, last but not least, the pies are LEGENDARY!

Our first winery stop, was at Oneric. O N E I R I C; pronounced “Oh! – ne – rik” borrowed from Greek terminology and roughly translated as ‘dream’ is exactly that – a gem nestled in the heart of the cool-climate Elgin Valley. Warmly received and graciously hosted. We found not only the view from the small estate but the Chardonnay quite a dream.

There were so many wineries on my list, and of course this was pre-lockdown, which also meant the valley was mostly empty. There next winery, I am a loyal admirer and consumer of, Elgin Ridge. We were fortunate enough to be hosted for a tasting by the Winemaker himself, Kosie van der Merwe. having been treated to a tasting of their incredibly delicious 2018 vintage 282 Chardonnay via a Coravin! (drools) Any oenophile will know when I say to own a Coravin is a dream indeed. I curiously ask in and out about the difference between organic and biodynamic viticulture, Kosie is visibly passionate about biodyamic viticulture in order to get the best out of the typicity that Elgin Ridge as a farm has to offer it is best to let the wines do the talking with minimal interference.

Today, Elgin Ridge is proudly certified biodynamic by Demeter (since 2016) and certified organic by ECOCERT (since 2012) and CERES, (since 2019). At current they are the only certified organic producer in the Elgin valley and one of just two certified biodynamic producers in the whole of South Africa! Visit purely for their range of gorgeous wines. The 282 Pinot Noir has a bright ruby colour and displays a raspberry and dark cherry fruit core with subtle hints of floral scent. On the palate, the acid adds an uplifting freshness to the cherry fruits and floral scent on the nose. Indulgent, special and one of those wines you open to celebrate something, be it, a celebration of life! The Crunch range, the everyday drinking range, but that’s certainly not to say it lacks in quality and taste. 50% whole bunch natural fermentation and aged for 7 months in concrete egg before bottling. With aromatics of intense raspberries and cranberries that carries over to the pallet with a salinity that leaves your mouth watering for more. The Crunch Sauvignon Blanc is equally delightful too!

Iona wineries was a bit of a trek up a 5km gravel road up alongside the hill that separates the main town from this (at the risk of sounding clichéd) hidden gem. I remember tasting their Sauvignon Blanc at the FNB TOP 10 awards, and was completely blown away, hence my eagerness to visit the estate. Greeted by a very fervent ridgeback pup leading us straight to the small but warm tasting room with a classic car emboldening the space but definitely not taking up space as one would think. The trek to find the winery was well worth it!

In the endeavour to produce a fine glass of wine from this stunning farm, Iona focuses on four quality wines; Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and the One Man Band, an estate blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Mourvedré and Viognier.The philosophy at Iona is to make wine that expresses the soils and climate as closely as possible, making use of sustainable farming methods and to maximise the use of natural products in farming and winemaking. Everything is done in-house, from the vineyard to the wine distribution.

Charles Fox

Give me a glass of MCC any day and I will be more than content! I’ve heard very good things about this Elgin wine estate and of course needed to see what the fuss was all about. The tasting room dons many a memorabilia from days past from the owners adventures to photos paying homage to working with renowned French winemakers. Originally an apple and pear farm, The Furneaux Farm was purchased by Charles and Zelda Fox in 2005 after an intensive search for terroir that would be perfect conditions for growing chardonnay and pinot noir grapes and producing MCC. I do love a good Brut, the Charles Fox Reserve Brut Rosé was a token of which I decided to bring back home with me.

Elgin Vintners

The weekend we spent wondering and tasting our way through the valley were spent mostly at Elgin Vintners, to which they have a guesthouse with four luxurious suites. We had the entire guest house to ourselves, but stayed in the Browne Suite. The Manor house was built in 1927 to a Sir Herbert Baker design, the Manor House has been restored to its Victorian glory, with all the modern comforts. Accommodating up to 10 guests in luxury suites, the Manor House is child-friendly and gives guests the run of the property, including the swimming pool, tennis court, garden and braai area.

Guests staying at the Elgin Vintners Manor House are offered the following complimentary services:
- Breakfast – a full Continental or hot breakfast on order, complete with coffee & tea
- Complimentary use of the estate’s swimming pool and tennis court
- A complimentary wine tasting of 4 Elgin Vintners wines at the Tasting Room
- Bottled water
- Wireless internet
- Bathroom and swimming towels
There were a few wineries like Almenkerk, Oak Valley and Paul Cluver that were unfortunately closed to visitors at that point before lockdown. But with level 3 in effect and with the hope of the virus coming to an end in the near future, I urge you to please plan your visits to as many of these wineries and perhaps if you can now, please order your favourite wines online from any of these magnificent wineries, in the Elgin region or any other local wine region for that matter.

Start planning your wine adventures, it’s never too late.

Take care and keep safe out there x
June 25, 2020
Off the Beeten Track – Visit the Hemel-en-Aarde Wine Region

Being a new-found wine geek, I’ve only recently discovered that Walker Bay/Hemel-en-Aarde is renowned for South Africa’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay during my recent WSET courses. This left me with a curious palate and a sense of adventure to travel to the wine region. Not knowing the area very well, I opted to stay in an AirBnB close-by to the glorious valley and the sea-side town of Hermanus. This is the second instalment of my three part wine-trip honeymoon series. I wish we had more time to explore all of the regions and wineries in each region but alas reality was calling.

Hemel-en-Aarde is a top cool climate for winemaking in South Africa situated towards Hermanus along the scenic and picturesque R320. There is beauty in abundance in the valley, it definitely feels as though you are between Heaven and Earth.

Hamilton Russell

The most southerly situated wine farm in the region was purchased in 1975 by founder Tim Hamilton Russell. Mr Hamilton Russell is said to have founded the Hemel-en-Aarde region. With his fascination of Pinot Noir as inspiration to bring this soft and delicate gem of a varietal to South Africa. His son, Anthony Hamilton Russell, who took over in 1991 and then buying the property in 1994, narrowed the winery’s range to Pinot noir and Chardonnay only and registered Hamilton Russell Vineyards as an Estate, committing to work only with grapes from their terroir.

We were in a very laidback kind of mood and thus didn’t make any bookings for wine tastings, which is encouraged especially with this region having lots of boutique wineries that sometimes insist on bookings. I would imagine this is because of the small number of staff on the farms. We were lucky enough to show up and have the tasting room manager assist us in an impromptu and very insightful tasting experience. ladies and gentelmen, this was the day I fell head over heels in love with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay! Something for the fellow wine geeks – this region’s soil is made up of a stony, clay-rich, shale-like minerality and is optimal for the growth of varietals produced in this area.

The HR 2018 Pinot Noir has elegant balance and structure, elevated length that carries the delicious notes of dark red fruit, alluring spicy and savoury notes on the palate. Reminiscent of a very good burgundy. The Chardonnay entices with lime, crisp green pear on the nose, has bright natural acid and earthy minerality which the terroir lends to this wonderfully elegant wine. The 2018 Ashborne Pinotage/Cinsault is an unwooded blend of 80% Pinotage and 20% Cinsault and is made from grapes sourced from old vineyards in the Swartland appellation. The richness and depth of the Pinotage is sophistocatedly freshened by the lightness and brightness of the Cinsault. This had me beaming with excitement, as our next wine region stop was the exciting and daring Swartland! With all the wedding gift money we were so lucky to receive ,we left with a few bottles of 2016 Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and the 2018 Ashborne Pinotage/Cinsault, and a few rocks I requested from the tasting room manager that was on display in the charming tasting cottage for reference for my next WSET Level 3 course. This was certainly one of a few highlights of this trip for me. (not the rocks, the wine guys!)

Newton Johnson

A short drive from Hamilton Russell, is the acclaimed Newton Johnson. Like HR racking up local and international awards with the likes of Decanter and Platters is an easy feat with the quality of their wines and passion of their winemakers. Owned and managed by the Newton Johnson family, the farm is situated in the upper Hemel-en-Aarde valley. Well known for their mastery in producing Pinot Noir at its best, they believe in making wine with purity of flavour and natural expression. They offer three ranges of wines, namely the Newton Johnson Family Vineyards Range, The Newton Johnson range, and Felicité by Newton Johnson. The first and second bowled me over. Specifically the Windansea Pinot Noir unfortunately not for tasting and exclusively available only at their winery, originates from a specific block on the Estate, and of course the 2017 Newton Johnson Family Vineyards Pinot Noir which has such bold expressive characteristics and elegant structure.

Soil samples of the three blocks on the vineyard.

Bouchard Finlayson

Home to the 2018 SA Wine Index 100 point award for the elegant Galpin Peak Pinot Noir, the 125-hectare property only has 22 hectares under vine with the rest left wild to conserve the indigenous Fynbos flora. The winery began as collaboration between Paul Bouchard, celebrated Burgundian winemaker, and locally awarded Peter Finlayson. Together, they built what is today world-renowned as Bouchard Finlayson.

The Husband taking in the view

When visiting, the tasting rooms were abuzz with wine-influenced bubbly chatter and laughter, with a few groups of tourists and one or two locals indulging in some leisurely wine-tasting on a weekday. Having only tasted a select few, like the Galpin Peak Pinot Noir which was an interestingly structured with a hint of jammy red fruit. The highlight for me was the legendary Kaaimansgat-Crocodile’s Lair Chardonnay. The Kaaimansgat /Crocodile’s Lair vineyard is hidden away in the Elands Kloof Valley behind the village of Villiersdorp, just 80km from Hermanus. A spot inside a valley nestled amongst majestic mountains. I can certainly see why this winery pulls so many awards! Other cultivars from the farm include Sauvignon Blanc, Sangiovese, Chenin Blanc and Riesling as well as some newer varieties: Nebbiolo, Barbera and Mourvèdre.

Ataraxia

I adore the architecture of the tasting room building of this invigorating winery, incredibly bold, and at the same time traditional like a majestic old chapel. Greek for “a serene state of mind, free from worry and preoccupation”, Ataraxia certainly lives up to the hype and name. This was our last stop in Hemel-en-Aarde with only so much wine I could consume in one day. Make sure to keep hydrated with lots of water (no, wine doesn’t count) and line your tummies with lots of tasty food to soak up all the wine! Please also make the responsible decision to have a designated driver along with you when wine-tripping, so you can really go all out and have as much fun! 🙂

In 2004, The Skyfields Farm was visioned into the Ataraxia wine label when husband and wife team, Kevin and Hanli Grant and a few friends purchased this 47-hectare prime vineyard property situated on a steep slope in upper hemel-en-aarde, with views that only can only dream of if not seen with your own eyes! Okay, Wine geeks fix your eyes, there are fourteen soil types on Ataraxia derived from the deposits of Table Mountain Sandstone, Cape Granite and Bokkeveld Shale. Collectively, all of these deposits make up the geology of the Hemel-en-Aarde region and can be traced back to more than 1000 million years. Interesting stuff, right?!

The 2017 Ataraxia Chardonnay, is an exquisite example of the varietal and this one commands respect, like our insightful wine consultant enthusiastically mentioned. This Chardonnay has bold crisp flavours of green apple peel, lemon zest and vanilla on the nose. The 2016 Pinot Noir is what I had to leave with. It’s intoxicating earthiness, minerality as well as bruised dark fruit made it such an easy choice, but who could choose between these two elegant wines! I adore the ruby red colour, especially glistening in the autumnal sun.

Another highlight of our trip?

Where to eat:

Fisherman’s Cottage

This legendary eatery is listed on the Top 100 Eat Out list as a unique dining experience not to be missed. They come highly recommended to all I’ve spoken to in the know. Don’t leave without trying their famous Seafood Curry!

Again, on a very lax and lazy buzz, because I mean honeymoon! We decided to pop in without phoning ahead to see if we were lucky enough to snag a spot in the local seaside eatery. Upon Entry the restaurant was packed to the rafters for a Tuesday evening, however the chef himself warmly welcomed us in and insisted he make space for us at the best seats in the house, in a little nook right next to the kitchen. Something I appreciate being that close to all the action and intoxicating aromas wafting out of the kitchen. Starters was a plate of fresh West Coast Oysters, a glass of Gabriëlskloof Rosebud Rosé which would prove to pair perfectly with both the starters and the mains which of course was the incredibly delicious seafood curry, served with freshly made naan. My Husband had “the best fish ever” which was a dish of succulent Snoek with sweet potato that had been roasted then fried to a crisp on the outside. The salty, smokey and sweet combination is what he loved but more over the texture of the fish was spot on!

Plaaskombuis

A farm-stall diner with delicious home-cooked meals and old-school thick milkshakes and family-friendly garden outside with a play area for the kids. Conveniently situated along the R320 between the wineries for those looking for a pitstop to fuel up on wholesome deliciousness. They have a cute little store on site, where you can stock up on your trip snacks.

I can’t stress how much you need to visit the valley between Heaven and Earth and the seaside town of Hermanus! I would suggest going in the off peak seasons to benefit from the fact that accommodation would be more affordable and will be a tad bearable if you’re like me and can’t do crowds.

I would suggest calling ahead and booking if you’re in larger groups of 5 or more. I think in our case, we were really lucky to just pop in, especially with the smaller boutique wineries.

Happy International Chardonnay day! What will you be celebrating with?

Dominique x

**This post is not sponsored. All expenses were personally incurred**

May 23, 2019